MARIA'S SEASIDE CAFE,

There are several house specialties on the regular menu: The chef stuffs his Portobello Rafael ($7.95) with spinach and sausage, topping it with pepper jack, an appealing possibility. But we wanted to try the prominently billed contribution of the family patriarch, Nicola's Original Grilled Calamari ($8.95), kindly proposed as an alternative to the standard batter-fried version also on the menu. Curled, smoky slices of a large squid body are accompanied by-fittingly earthy arugula, for a robust taste combination. Other highlights: "Ravioli Fatti di Casa" ($15.95), five-large half-moons were filled with portobello, mozzarella, roasted chicken, sun-dried tomato, and -- who would have thought? -- broccoli rabe. Under a light tomato cream sauce, the blend is quite good, the strong personality of the rabe not overwhelming the taste. Two other kitchen-made ravioli, are also served, as well as eight other pastas. The "secondi" section boasts three chicken dishes, three veal dishes, filet mignon, and three seafood items.

Full review.